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Materials: Brown silk satin, silk tasseled core, Needlerun lace,
homespun linen lining.
Provenance: Gown purchased from descendants
of James Curtis Booth (B. 1810, D. 1888) of Philadelphia. Possibly belonged to
his mother, Ann Balton Booth, born in Chestertown, MD.
Measurements: Sh. to Sh. 13"; Slv L, 12"; Gown L, 51"; hem c,
102.
Condition: Silk satin is in
remarkable condition for its age. There are 4 or 5 tiny (1/4") dark stains
on the dress and a 1 1/2" x 1" frayed spot in the silk located next to
the 7" right side seam opening (an identical one is on the gowns left
side). I believe these openings must have been for easy access to a Ladies inner
pockets. This gown has had it's hem altered. It has been turned an additional
1/4" with stitching that is not as fine as on the rest of the gown. Perhaps
the hem was shortened, or a train removed. The sleeves have been enlarged there
is a narrow rectangular gusset added to the undersides. Overall assessment is
that this early gown is in excellent condition.
Comments: This style of dress was
fashionable in France as early as 1790. It would take 5 to 10 years for this
style to be copied by American women. To see a round gown of similar
construction please refer to the purple satin gown on page 82 of the Kyoto
Institute's, Revolution in Fashion, 1715-1815. Not many of turn of the
19th century silk satin gowns survive, even in museum collections. This brown
silk gown has much to recommend it: luxurious satin, charming self fabric
shoulder bows and a simple elegance that is timeless.
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