#2634   Day Dress & Shawl   c. 1810


Materials:
 
Dress: silk and cotton twill, brass hooks, linen ties, cotton muslin bodice lining, cotton & silk cord trim. Shawl: gold and silver silk damask surah (twill weave).

Label: Inside at the back of the neckline is a series of embroidered characters (letters or numbers) in red floss.

Condition: Dress is Excellent. Fabric is foxed, one period mend and two of the brass hooks replaced with metal. Construction has not been altered! Shawl Excellent. few small mends and faint stains.

Measurements:    Dress: Sh-Sh, 13.5"; B, 36"; W, 27"; L, 55"; Slv L, 22.5"; Hem C, 88". Shawl: 50" x 52".

Comments: A mark of status in the early 19th C. was for a lady to own a silk dress. Silk yardage was very costly, so fabric manufacturers offered "half-silks" for sale. Half-silks were woven with a silk warp and a cotton weft. These fabrics significantly reduced the cost of  a "silk" dress, making it possible for  a lady of the middle class to own one. With this early 19th C. half-silk dress one sees gold silk on the fabric's front side and light brown cotton on the under-side. The dress has an apron-front construction; the upper bodice hooks at the neckline, deep side slits in the skirt are pleated at the "waist" and tied at the center back. Beautiful tiny stitching is found throughout this dress. The lovely damask gold shawl has a large floral border pattern with smaller flowers covering the ground. Shawl dates to the 1830s. The two pieces were originally purchased together by an American collector, possibly in England, sometime in the mid 20th C.