#1587    Reception Gown   c. 1868-1870

United States: New York, N.Y. 

Materials: Reception gown consisting of bodice, skirt and overskirt.  Dove gray silk faille, cream silk fringe, satin cording, cotton tulle, cotton lining, linen tape and Dorset buttons.

Provenance: This gown's original owner was Mary Caroline Lewis, daughter of Reverend Zachariah Lewis who was the tutor of George and Martha Washington's children.  Mary Lewis in 1843 married Augusta Corey Richards.  In the 1850s they built Woodcliff House. To avoid bombardments during the Civil War, A.C. Richards temporarily moved his family up river to Irvington-on-Hudson.  Decades later Woodcliff House was purchased by John D. Rockefeller.  He demolished Woodcliff House and built the Cloisters on the same site. Click here for a complete family provenance.

Condition: Very good to excellent.  There are no tears, splits or holes anywhere.  The gown looks as though it were never worn, as the silk cord to hold the tulle pleats is still in place and there are no interior stains in the bodice lining.  However, there are three ugly stains, two large ones on the underskirt and one on the back edge of the overskirt.  I believe that sometime while in storage, something bright red spilled onto the skirt, leaving a red center stain with the edges fading to brown. There are two large stains on the back of the underskirt and some areas of faint gray soiling (see photos). These larger stains are not visible when the gown is displayed - they are completely covered by the overskirt.  The third and smaller stain is on the back hem edge of the overskirt.  It is a narrow light brown stain 8" long.  These three stains are unfortunate, but luckily are located so that they do not detract from the magnificent impact of this gown on the viewer when displayed.

Measurements:  Bodice:  B, 32"; W, 22"; Sh-Sh, 13 1/2"; Sh-W, 12"; Slv L, 15".  Skirt: W, 22 1/2"; Front L, 40 1/2"; Back L, 60 1/2"; Hem C, 170".  Overskirt:  W, 22 1/2"; Front L, 27".

Comments: The combination of the quality of materials used, the dramatic understated design, highest quality workmanship,  elegant color choice and important mid 19th century New York provenance all add up to a very historic American garment.