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Materials: Heavy pale peach silk faille,
embroidered net lace yardage, bobbin lace, peach silk tulle, pink silk
lacing with brass ends, 19 self covered buttons, peach velvet ribbons,
brass or steel hooks and eyes. Bodice interior: 11 baleen stays, fine
peach silk faille, ivory linen petersham, silk twill hem binding. Skirt
interior: fine peach silk faille, built-in muslin bustle/lining with
metal canes and elastic & cotton tapes, windowpane buckram, cotton
gauze box pleated hem ruffle with 2" deep Mechlin lace, double row
of accordion pleated pink silk faille hem ruffles.
Provenance: Gown belonged to Julia Anna
Spencer Whittemore of Naugatuck, CT, B. Oct 29, 1839, D. December
21, 1915. In 1863 Julia Spencer married John Howard Whittemore,
Naugatuck's most prominent 19th c. citizen. Whittemore's fortune grew
from his vast malleable iron foundries. In the 1880s the Whittemores
built their spacious Naugatuck home, "Tranquility Farm". Julia
Whittemore is the subject of Mary Cassat's 1898 portrait, "Portrait
of a Grand Lady". An extensive and fascinating family history
(including family tree & xerox of M.C. portrait) written by her
grandson, Robert N. Whittemore, will be made available with the sale of
this reception gown.
Condition: This gown is in as close to
pristine condition as I've ever seen in an 1880s bustle dress. No
exterior stains, a few tiny worn spots on the heavy faille fabric. The
interior lining in the bodice is in perfect condition; interior muslin
lining in the skirt has one large brown stain which stands out against
the otherwise white and off white lining materials; also one 4"
tear in the peach faille lining near waistband. The hooks on the skirt
have been moved 2" to increase waist. Silk tulle on bodice
perfect!
Measurements:  Bodice: Sh-Sh, 11.5";
B, 34"; W, 26"; Slv L, 15"; Sh-W, 13". Skirt: W,
28"; Front L, 38"; Back L, 62"; Hem C, 135".
Comments: When I bought this trained
reception gown from
the Tranquility Farm estate, Robert Whittemore told me he believed this
was worn by his beloved grandmother for her silver wedding anniversary.
This makes sense, as this bustle gown is definitely in the late 1880s
style. The skirt, with it's completely built in bustle, weighs at least
6 pounds. Construction on the gown is superb. There is no label in the
petersham, however, many of Julia Spencer Whittemore's clothing had
Paris, London, New York or Newport labels. The unique bodice has two
closures; it closes with 19 self covered buttons and then there are two
boned panels that lace up through hand embroidered eyelets. An elegant
and tasteful late 1880s bustle gown.
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