Materials: Printed silk and cotton brocade, rose velveteen, chemical
lace in Reticella pattern, Valenciennes lace, 12 steel stays, brass hooks and
eyes. Waist linings: striped cotton, brown/blue silk and cream silk. Skirt
lining: brown/blue silk faille, velveteen hem binding encasing cotton cord.
Provenance: Emily Clark Campbell Jessup
(1862-1898) wore this wedding gown when she married Dr. James Jessup on June 5,
1895. Dr. Jessup was the first Doctor to open a practice in Kittaning,
Pennsylvania.
Label: Stamped in gold on cream silk
petersham, reads, "Mme. Roiphe Pittsburgh, Pa."
Condition: Perfect. Two sets
of dress shields are present inside the waist, both are stained and could be
removed. The petersham is torn in two places.
Measurements: Waist: Sh-Sh, 13"; B,
32"; W, 24"; Slv L, 25". Skirt: W, 24"; L, 40"; Hem C,
190".
Comments: For practical reasons, wedding
gowns in the 19th c often were made in colors other than white, allowing the
gown to have a life post-wedding as the bride's "best dress".
Exquisite tailoring distinguishes this custom made gown. To give body to the
skirt, a 22" steel stay is horizontally sewn to the lining 5" above
the hem (at the skirt front). Also the hem is bound in velveteen with stiff
cotton cording sewn inside. These details give the skirt the smooth mid 1890's
cone shape. A tightly boned bodice and huge gigot sleeves perfectly counter
balance the skirt. All the trimming is artfully placed on the waist,
drawing the eye of the observer to the beautifully framed face of the bride.
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